You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account. Post Reply. Using the middle setting, do I use one or both of these washers?
I appreciate your help One of my future mods. Jim LE , Dec 6, MacCTD , Dec 6, What are the washers for? I'm in the middle setting. Mikekoot , Dec 6, The washers are for the bump stops. Turn them off, throw the spacer on and reinstall. Jengel , Dec 6, Tundras have two bump stops per side. They have nothing to do with the spring setting and everything to do with shock body length and bottoming.
Mikekoot and rvrats2 like this. It literally takes 3 minutes per side. They'll be staring you in the face while youre doing the shocks. Easiest part of the job. NewImprovedRon and 15whtrd like this. Interesting, did mine 8 years ago and they did not come with washers. Mikekoot likes this. Mikekoot and Jengel like this.
MacCTD , Dec 7, Post some pictures OP when you do the install! When I replaced the shocks on my 08, I'm strongly considering the Bilsteins. NewImprovedRon likes this. Overall it was a huge success. Once the lower control arm drops and the last stock coilover nut is loosened, be careful when lowering it.
It helps to hold the coilover with one hand while removing the last top nut there are 4 top nuts total. Otherwise, the coilover can drop and possibly cut or damage the outer rubber CV axle boot. Wiggling the coilover out take some finesse and finagling to prevent damage to the boot. I did the same when installing the new coilover, which was a bit harder for me to do since now I had push it up and work against gravity with its heavy weight. It took several tries for me to get the new coilover in and upwards into the top shock tower.
I had to angle it almost sideways from the bottom at first all while trying to avoid brake lines and the CV axle boot. Once the new coilover is in the top shock assembly, it helps to loosely thread the 4 top bolts of the coilover to make it easier to wiggle the lower shock mount into the lower control arm cup and align the lower shock bolt holes. I used a long, strong screw driver to align the lower shock bolt holes with the lower control arm. I found this part much easier than anticipated with the lower control arm flopping loose.
I imagine it would be much more difficult, but not impossible, to do using the he-man crowbar method of pressing down on the lower control arm while simultaneously aligning and then installing the lower shock bolt. The next step of re-connecting the lower ball joint assembly was much trickier than I thought it would be.
I had read of others struggling with this part, and my experience was no different from theirs. I had seen videos and read of others using ratcheting straps to help join the two components together.
Although I had ratcheting straps, I couldn't figure out where to safely attach them without risking messing up brake lines and what I assume to be the ABS wires, despite what the videos showed. I had to jack it up fairly high to get them together. This part was easy enough, but just because the two components were joined didn't necessarily mean the two assembly bolt holes were aligned. Using a big strong flat-head screw driver, I pried and manhandled the assemblies enough so that they finally aligned up to begin threading the two lower ball joint assembly bolts.
I threaded the first one loosely to allow for the ability to pry and fiddle with the other side enough to align it and thread the second bolt. Otherwise, tightening down one made it difficult to align the other side, or at least it did with me. I then tightened them both up all the way to keep the two assemblies tightly together. Afterwards, I removed one bolt, applied red threadlocker to it, then re-tightened and torqued it up.
I then did the same with the other bolt. I tightened and torqued everything else up except the stabilizer bar, which I kept disconnected to help with the other side. Once done with the other side, I re-connected the stabilizer bar. I've read from others that it helps to reconnect the links when both tires are back on and the truck is lowered from the jacks, but I was able to reconnect them by using the hydraulic jack on the lower control arms and jacking them up.
It helps to not thread any link bolts in until the links on both sides are equally as aligned as possible. I still had to tap the bolt on one side in with a mallet, though. Anyway, I hope the above help others thinking of doing this install on their own. It obviously helps if you've had prior suspension experience.
Again, check out the videos and TRD Pro suspension install instructions. Good luck! Show Ignored Content. Branick Strut Spring Compressor. ABN Warrior Products 2. Gabriel Suspension Mount, 3 Pack, Regular. Maxima Chain Wax - Rough Country 1. Hellwig Helper Spring Kit. Bilstein Mounting Kit. WULF 1. Powerbuilt Unijack - lb.
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